The famous chef/TV host/food scientist’s love of carbon steel cookware never appeared on his show. But it’s a smart addition to your kitchen arsenal.
In his last cookbook, Good Eats: The Final Years, Alton Brown shared his last word on how to cook everything from the best brownies to fried eggs.
Egg cookery leads him to expound on his favorite cookware: the carbon steel pan.
“A carbon steel pan [is] a tool I consider essential despite the fact that I’ve gone 20 years without mentioning one on TV.” —Alton Brown
“One of the problems with fried egg recipes, my own past efforts included, is that they make very vague references to heat,” he notes.
That can cause inconsistent results—underdone whites in the name of runny yolks or overdone yolks sacrificed for lacy white edges.
His solution: Preheat the pan in the hot oven.
“It sounds weird, but it works,” Brown promises, “but only if you have a carbon steel pan, a tool I consider essential despite the fact that I’ve gone 20 years without mentioning one on TV.”
What???
This is fascinating. I’ve interviewed Brown, picking his brain about his favorite gear. We talked at length about his love of vintage cast-iron skillets, which he restores as a hobby.
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But not one word about carbon steel.
A well-seasoned carbon steel pan is an indestructible standby for everything from eggs to fish.
What Is Carbon Steel Cookware?
Carbon steel skillets are nothing new—they’ve been hiding in plain sight in professional kitchens all along. The cookware is a restaurant supply store standby, and carbon steel woks have long found a place in home kitchens.
But in the past few years, the cookware made its way into more home kitchens, thanks partly to direct-to-consumer companies like Made In (I’ve got several of their pans). Merten & Storck, Volrath, de Buyer, and Mauviel also produce excellent carbon steel skillets. Carbon steel has picked up enough steam that the iconic cast iron cookware company Lodge now has a line of carbon steel cookware.
A few years ago, weary at the prospect of replacing yet another nonstick skillet (they all die, eventually, no matter how expensive they are), and after a good experience with a carbon-steel wok, I decided to try a carbon steel skillet as my nonstick go-to.
Like Alton Brown, I’m a convert, using it to cook everything from eggs to steak to fish.
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This Made In carbon steel paella pan was a surprise gift. I’ve never made paella, but this pan has been crazy versatile. Thanks to its wide surface, I use it as a comal to warm tortillas, a griddle for pancakes, and as a pizza pan.
Carbon Steel vs. Cast Iron
Carbon steel cookware shares some qualities with cast iron—with some key differences:
- Both are made of iron, though carbon steel contains 1% carbon vs. cast iron’s 2%-4% carbon. That means a carbon steel pan can weigh half as much as a comparable-size cast iron skillet.
- Both are virtually indestructible. Cast iron can withstand temps up to 650°F, while carbon steel can go up to a rippin’ hot 1,200°F. Even if they get covered in rust, you can strip them down to their unseasoned state and start over.
- Carbon steel heats up and cools down much faster than cast iron, so it responds to changes in temperature more quickly while cooking. This is nice when, say, you want to sear a steak at high heat, then lower the temperature to finish it (or reverse-sear it).
- Cast iron heats up more slowly but retains heat longer, so it’s great for braising and baking. That’s why Dutch ovens typically are made with cast iron, often with an enamel coating that makes them nearly nonstick.
- Both require seasoning, and you can buy pre-seasoned pans. (The exception is enameled cast iron cookware, which doesn’t require seasoning.)
- Well-seasoned carbon steel and cast iron pans are as close to nonstick as you can get without using a specifically nonstick pan.
Which is best? That depends on how you like to cook. I have both, though carbon steel’s lighter weight means those are the pans I reach for most often.
Do you need both? Nope. I’d say if you’re a devoted cast-iron fan, you’re set. If you’re considering cast iron but are concerned about the weight, carbon steel is the way to go.
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Maintaining Carbon Steel Cookware
Like regular (i.e., not enamaled) cast iron pans, many carbon steel pans come pre-seasoned, while others don’t.
I’m not sure why you’d buy one that isn’t pre-seasoned unless, like Brown, you’re into seasoning pans as a hobby.
My advice is to always go with a pre-seasoned option so you can get cooking. Carbon steel cookware’s patina and nonstick qualities continue to improve with use.
But you’ll want to maintain that seasoning:
- Wash the pan after use (yes, it’s fine to use soap). Avoid leaving water to soak in the pan, which can cause it to rust. For anything that’s really stuck on, I like to use The Ringer, which is made of stainless-steel chainmail and won’t damage the pan’s seasoning.
- Place the pan over medium-low heat to dry completely.
- Rub the pan’s surface inside and out with a thin layer of cooking oil (vegetable is a good candidate). I like the Crisbee Puck, which makes it easy to keep that layer thin. This helps protect the pan from rust.
(Note: The Ringer and Crisbee Puck also are great for maintaining cast iron cookware.)
Alton Brown’s Final Fried Eggs: Reloaded
Equipment
- 1 carbon steel pan
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 large eggs, cold
- 1 heavy pinch kosher salt
Instructions
- Place a 10-inch carbon steel skillet on the middle rack of the oven. Preheat oven to 450°F. Once the oven reaches its temperature, let it heat for another 30 minutes.
- Meanwhile, place the butter on a square of parchment paper about the size of a Post-It note. The butter should be soft but not melted.
- When the pan is almost done preheating, remove the eggs from the fridge. Break them into a custard cup or small bowl.
- Carefully remove the hot pan using a side towel, oven mitt, or potholder. Place it on the stove (do not turn on a burner). Add the butter to the pan, swirling the pan to coat. As soon as the butter coats the pan, but before it has fully melted, pour the eggs into the middle of the pan. Season with salt. Cover the pan and let it stand for 4 minutes. Slide the eggs onto a warm plate.